Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.

Is there any way you could show some pictures on how to sand down the leg for applying the decals so they don't tear or maybe even a link to a video so I dont get it wrong. Thanks Nave.

Just to ask what is the best spray to use to seal decals, paint and sharpie??? also can someone plz reply to my post I need to know.

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Ha, I love that. Know I know how to apply decals

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Thank you I got waterslides the other day and was not sure how to aplly them and this helped alot.

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This is as n00bish as heck, but how is decal softener used? Such as application.

EDIT: Gosh darn it, I really fail.

...

Hey CG, I was wondering if you were using a plain white torso os if you sanded down a regular clone trooper torso. If it was sanded down, how did you do it? If it was a plain white torso, where did you get it?
Thanks

EliteShadowTrooper wrote:Hey CG, I was wondering if you were using a plain white torso os if you sanded down a regular clone trooper torso. If it was sanded down, how did you do it? If it was a plain white torso, where did you get it?
Thanks

You can get plain white torsos off of BL. Or you can brasso/sand down the clone torso.

Ergghhhh.....

No, no. Do not sand. It creates a rough and horrible surface.

Brasso removes the printing only - with chemicals, it's a polish - and leaves a blank surface. Sanding literally grinds bits off the torso - it's nasty, in my view.

Blank torsos are actually quite rare, especially white ones. It's cheaper and easier to buy a load of simply printed (like the Octan ones) white torsos and brasso off the printing. It looks cleaner, too.

Erm....I shouldn't have sharpied that blank white torso then.

Ham701 wrote:Erm....I shouldn't have sharpied that blank white torso then.

you can erase or brasso it off... but its simple enough to find white minifig's you can do the same to.

Well, yeah, I know that, I just didn't know blank white torsoes were so rare. Just like when I looked up the Black Falcon minifigs on Bl. The set I have came out in '86, ten years older than I am. I find random facts about my darling minifigs interesting.

Chaotic Good wrote:Ergghhhh.....

No, no. Do not sand. It creates a rough and horrible surface.

Brasso removes the printing only - with chemicals, it's a polish - and leaves a blank surface. Sanding literally grinds bits off the torso - it's nasty, in my view.

Blank torsos are actually quite rare, especially white ones. It's cheaper and easier to buy a load of simply printed (like the Octan ones) white torsos and brasso off the printing. It looks cleaner, too.

Actually it does depend what grain and quality of sandpaper you use. But yes, Brasso>Sanding in this case.

I've used a nail-file, a light-weight thin stick thing, I don't know precisely what to call it. But, it works pretty good. The printing comes right off and it isn't rough at all. But still, I use the brasso stuff. It takes less time.

I actually use sandpaper to remove the printing off of all of my troopers. The surface is quite smooth, and when I apply the decal, it looks shinier than when TLC made it. Also, I don't use softener. I couldn't find any the first time I went looking to try decals, so I risked it and found out that I didn't need it! The decal contoured exactly to the arms, legs, and helmet. But, it only works without softener for clear decal paper, not white. To finish off the fig, and to add shine to everything that wasn't decaled to give a nice overall feel, I cover/coat the minifig with acrylic gloss. 1 coat is all that is needed! I hoped I helped. Thanks to CG for teaching me how to apply the decals.

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

Rijulskywalker wrote:I actually use sandpaper to remove the printing off of all of my troopers. The surface is quite smooth, and when I apply the decal, it looks shinier than when TLC made it. Also, I don't use softener. I couldn't find any the first time I went looking to try decals, so I risked it and found out that I didn't need it! The decal contoured exactly to the arms, legs, and helmet. But, it only works without softener for clear decal paper, not white. To finish off the fig, and to add shine to everything that wasn't decaled to give a nice overall feel, I cover/coat the minifig with acrylic gloss. 1 coat is all that is needed! I hoped I helped. Thanks to CG for teaching me how to apply the decals.

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

Merely a different in quality. Mine are similar to photo paper as well.

Thunder-blade wrote:

Chaotic Good wrote:Ergghhhh.....

No, no. Do not sand. It creates a rough and horrible surface.

Brasso removes the printing only - with chemicals, it's a polish - and leaves a blank surface. Sanding literally grinds bits off the torso - it's nasty, in my view.

Blank torsos are actually quite rare, especially white ones. It's cheaper and easier to buy a load of simply printed (like the Octan ones) white torsos and brasso off the printing. It looks cleaner, too.

Actually it does depend what grain and quality of sandpaper you use. But yes, Brasso>Sanding in this case.

I created such a controversy over sandpaper on LEGO torsos... At least I got the information I needed! Now to go buy brasso...

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

From my perspective, mine look like they're on photo paper. Sometimes they get printed wrongly, but I've never put up any pictures of those.

Can you provide a picture of what yours look like?

Chaotic Good wrote:

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

From my perspective, mine look like they're on photo paper. Sometimes they get printed wrongly, but I've never put up any pictures of those.

Can you provide a picture of what yours look like?

I think he means the backing paper after the waterslide comes off. Yours looks very stiff and thick.

Mine personally tend to go all translucent and thin.

If that's it, then that's just the variations of decal paper types. It doesn't affect the quality, anyhow.

Does anyone have a distinct opinion regarding decal setting solution? I understand that decal softening solution is quite crucial, but only about half the articles I read mention setting solution. From what I understand it helps bond the decal to the surface, but this seems superfluous to me after the decal is sealed. Also if you were to use decal setting solution, would it be applied after the decal is placed on the surface, and then let to dry, and then you apply coats of softening solution until the decal conforms? Or would you apply the decal with softening solution, let dry and then apply decal setting solution?