Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
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Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
Surely this does deserve its own topic? 
WARNING: Picture Heavy.
To begin:
Firstly, you'll require your tools. Personally, I use an Exacto-knife, some Scissors and a pair of tweezers. For more complicated decals you'll probably also need some decal softening solution - or decal fix; I've found that either will work just as well.
You'll of course also need your clear Acrylic Spray - or any other sealant type.
And these are waterslide decals. So you'll need a small bowl of filtered water.

At this point, you'll have your designs printed on waterslide paper and sealed. Thus:

I'll be applying all of those decals; but not in minute detail, as all application is pretty much the same.
Next, you should take your scissors and/or your exacto-knife, and cut out or trim the decals. Thus, they should now look something like this:

Now take your (torso, in this case) decal, clasp it tightly in the tweezers and dip it quickly into the water. Leave it to dry for two minutes/possibly three maximum.

The design is printed in two parts; the decal itself is on a film, which slides off the backing when you gently slide it with your finger. Slide it onto the element, and iron out any air bubbles with a cotton bud/Q-tip. Make sure not to let it wrinkle. Let dry for about five hours - by that time it will have dried onto the torso.

Thus:

The little piece of paper is the backing to the decal paper. It's what is left after the film is slid off onto the element.
MORE ADVANCED DECAL APPLICATION
Legs, arms, helmets. All these surfaces are curved or domed, and thus require a softening solution for the decals. (E.g. Humbrol Decal Fix, which works as one.)
First: legs.

Take a small brush and dip it into the softening solution.

Spread some of the solution onto the (in this case, leg) decal. Then grasp the wet decal in tweezers and dip it into the water.

Application is the same from that point as with normal decals. Slide it off the backing onto the leg, and iron out any air bubbles with a Q-Tip/Cotton Bud. It can also be used to position it.

Then for the other leg, merely repeat the same method.

As I apply the arm decals - in exactly the same way, but with more solution, because arms are more curved - I can give an in-action illustration of application.

Once again, iron out any air bubbles with a Q-Tip/Cotton Bud - but with arm decals, I use my fingertips to push down the decal into the desired shape, applying more solution or water if it seems difficult to adapt it to the shape.
Thus:

Helmet decals are identical in method to arm decals; but, if your helmet is completely decals, then beware of accidentally getting one of the decals stuck on your hand and getting pulled off. It's happened to me more than once.
So here we have them all!

SEALING DECALS
^This works precisely the same for all decal shapes, but with arm decals you may wish to attach them to a TLC pole-like piece, as shown in the above picture.
Firstly, cut out a hole in a piece of paper to shape with the desired element. In this case, with torsos:

Place the hole over the element with the applied decal, like so:

Hold your sealant a suitable distance (about 10-20 cm) or at a distance you deem suitable - it depends on your sealant. It is certain that 'Matt' Acrylic Spray needs to be done from 30 cm, but Glossy spray can be done quite a bit closer.
So yes, hold it at a suitable distance and spray it on the desired decalled element. Generally two coats or three are required, but my 'Keen' Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray only seems to need one coat to seal it quite well. Two are recommended, though.

And that's basically it! I hope that helped someone, somewhere. Thank you for reading.
But before I go, here's something in the spirit of the piece:
One I prepared earlier.

WARNING: Picture Heavy.
To begin:
Firstly, you'll require your tools. Personally, I use an Exacto-knife, some Scissors and a pair of tweezers. For more complicated decals you'll probably also need some decal softening solution - or decal fix; I've found that either will work just as well.
You'll of course also need your clear Acrylic Spray - or any other sealant type.
And these are waterslide decals. So you'll need a small bowl of filtered water.

At this point, you'll have your designs printed on waterslide paper and sealed. Thus:

I'll be applying all of those decals; but not in minute detail, as all application is pretty much the same.
Next, you should take your scissors and/or your exacto-knife, and cut out or trim the decals. Thus, they should now look something like this:

Now take your (torso, in this case) decal, clasp it tightly in the tweezers and dip it quickly into the water. Leave it to dry for two minutes/possibly three maximum.

The design is printed in two parts; the decal itself is on a film, which slides off the backing when you gently slide it with your finger. Slide it onto the element, and iron out any air bubbles with a cotton bud/Q-tip. Make sure not to let it wrinkle. Let dry for about five hours - by that time it will have dried onto the torso.

Thus:

The little piece of paper is the backing to the decal paper. It's what is left after the film is slid off onto the element.
MORE ADVANCED DECAL APPLICATION
Legs, arms, helmets. All these surfaces are curved or domed, and thus require a softening solution for the decals. (E.g. Humbrol Decal Fix, which works as one.)
First: legs.

Take a small brush and dip it into the softening solution.

Spread some of the solution onto the (in this case, leg) decal. Then grasp the wet decal in tweezers and dip it into the water.

Application is the same from that point as with normal decals. Slide it off the backing onto the leg, and iron out any air bubbles with a Q-Tip/Cotton Bud. It can also be used to position it.

Then for the other leg, merely repeat the same method.

As I apply the arm decals - in exactly the same way, but with more solution, because arms are more curved - I can give an in-action illustration of application.


Once again, iron out any air bubbles with a Q-Tip/Cotton Bud - but with arm decals, I use my fingertips to push down the decal into the desired shape, applying more solution or water if it seems difficult to adapt it to the shape.
Thus:

Helmet decals are identical in method to arm decals; but, if your helmet is completely decals, then beware of accidentally getting one of the decals stuck on your hand and getting pulled off. It's happened to me more than once.
So here we have them all!

SEALING DECALS
^This works precisely the same for all decal shapes, but with arm decals you may wish to attach them to a TLC pole-like piece, as shown in the above picture.
Firstly, cut out a hole in a piece of paper to shape with the desired element. In this case, with torsos:

Place the hole over the element with the applied decal, like so:

Hold your sealant a suitable distance (about 10-20 cm) or at a distance you deem suitable - it depends on your sealant. It is certain that 'Matt' Acrylic Spray needs to be done from 30 cm, but Glossy spray can be done quite a bit closer.
So yes, hold it at a suitable distance and spray it on the desired decalled element. Generally two coats or three are required, but my 'Keen' Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray only seems to need one coat to seal it quite well. Two are recommended, though.

And that's basically it! I hope that helped someone, somewhere. Thank you for reading.
But before I go, here's something in the spirit of the piece:
One I prepared earlier.

________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
Thank you! I can't believe I finally got around to doing one...
CT44 asked for it, by the way.
CT44 asked for it, by the way.
________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
How do you have/get all this helmets.
Cause if I find out how, then, I am defently gonna use this.
EDIT:
Helmet= www.bricklink.com
Tools= where???
Decals- Crafty Computer Paper -
Cause if I find out how, then, I am defently gonna use this.
EDIT:
Helmet= www.bricklink.com
Tools= where???
Decals- Crafty Computer Paper -
Last edited by The Blue Shadow Virus on Sat Apr 11, 2009 1:05 pm; edited 2 times in total

The Blue Shadow Virus- Favorite Lego Star Wars figure: Commander Bly.
Country:
Corps Emblem:
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
The Blue Shadow Virus wrote:How do you have/get all this helmets.
Cause if I find out how, then I am defently gonna use this.
One word my friend: Bricklink. (That is what you use, right CG?)
________________________________
The Jinja Ninja wrote:PizzaMovies wrote:And look what's happening to that! Legoboy and michaelmgf have arrived to buttrape and destroy everything LEGO WWII stands for!
Om nom nom, tasty irony...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
Very thorough and helpful - what I want to ask is: how do you prevent the legs decals from tearing when you bend his legs?
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
MikeZulu wrote:Very thorough and helpful - what I want to ask is: how do you prevent the legs decals from tearing when you bend his legs?
I PM'd Wuzz about this very thing. He said this:
Wuzzupbob wrote:sand the underside of the belt.![]()
________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
^Why did someone report Gerrard's post?
Thanks guys. I'm glad I made this tutorial.
Thanks guys. I'm glad I made this tutorial.
________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
I don't know, it wasn't me. Now here's a message to all the footsoldiers in the anti-gerrard army: That post was OK. That's an example of a post where he added something constructive. We are out to stop the 'Yes, I agree with everything so and so said.' If he adds something of his own it's OK but if he just copies someone else then we pounce.
Thank you.
Thank you.


80-0- Age: 16
Location: New York, New YORK!
Favorite Lego Star Wars figure: Phase 1 Clone Trooper
Country:
Corps Emblem:
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
Very helpful, although I already knew most of this stuff. But I don't use the Decal Fix for curved areas... it just works without it. 
________________________________
Excellent job on those troopers, I very like your purist paintings.
Purist Paintings. Indeed.
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
The Blue Shadow Virus wrote:Where can you get the waterslíde decals?
I got them from Crafty Computer Paper - but there's some at Micromark and other places.
But I don't use the Decal Fix for curved areas... it just works without it.
Yes, but Kam said it should be done with it. Are you defying the almighty Clonier?
________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
No, I don't even remember seeing that. It works fine without it (for me, I'm not saying that everyone else shouldn't do it), so it's just one less thing to buy.
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
I never knew it was that complicated! Meh I'll still stick with stickers. 
________________________________
CommandoEighty-Oh wrote:DarthPineapple: Grumpy, but with a heart of gold.
But remember, something is required to access the secret vault within DP that is the heart of gold.
Brickshelf & Flickr

DarthPineapple- Hard - HEART of Gold.

- Age: 16
Location: The Netherlands
Favorite Lego Star Wars figure: Gungans and Geonosians
Country:
Corps Emblem:
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
DarthPineapple wrote:I never knew it was that complicated! Meh I'll still stick with stickers.
Well said DP, well said.
________________________________

Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
DarthPineapple wrote:I never knew it was that complicated! Meh I'll still stick with stickers.
So said the Stone Age man to the man with metal tools.
So said the Stone Age man.
________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
Chaotic Good wrote:DarthPineapple wrote:I never knew it was that complicated! Meh I'll still stick with stickers.
So said the Stone Age man to the man with metal tools.
So said the Stone Age man.
What's Stone Age-ish about stickers?
________________________________
CommandoEighty-Oh wrote:DarthPineapple: Grumpy, but with a heart of gold.
But remember, something is required to access the secret vault within DP that is the heart of gold.
Brickshelf & Flickr

DarthPineapple- Hard - HEART of Gold.

- Age: 16
Location: The Netherlands
Favorite Lego Star Wars figure: Gungans and Geonosians
Country:
Corps Emblem:
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
Re: Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.
DarthPineapple wrote:What's Stone Age-ish about stickers?
It's a metaphor. Stickers represent the past, and Waterslides are the shiny new future. Yeah, waterslides requires more work; but so did metal tools compared to stone tools.
Not that stickers are bad. Stickers quite often rock.
So don't take me the wrong way.
On another note...
Who thinks this should be a sticky? :grin:
________________________________
For I marched to the battles of the German trench
In a war that was bound to end all wars
Oh I must have killed a million men, and now they want me back again
But I ain't marchin' anymore...
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